Text and Video by Michael MacDonald
Photography by Michael MacDonald
Illustrations and Storyline by Curt Bowen
My Track
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Storyline 0:00 to 16:47 - The Dive 16:47 to 22:53
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The early light of morning broke over Manitoulin Island, streaks of sun pushing through the drifting clouds. A westerly breeze rolled off the waters of Georgian Bay, carrying with it the scent of hay, brine, and iron from the dockside.
Captain John McKay stood at the rail of the SS Manasoo, his dark eyes shadowed beneath the brim of his cap. At 5’9”, with a long beard streaked gray against black, he cut a weathered figure—one that spoke of years spent on these same lakes under both calm skies and brutal storms. He had grown up here, son of a captain who had piloted steamers since the mid-1800s. Yet now, only a year into his post commanding this newly rebuilt vessel, McKay felt the weight of orders that pressed against his instincts.
On the dock, Don Wallace strode with the swagger of his lineage. A heavyset man, nearly six feet tall, he carried the authority of five generations of Ontario ranching in his shoulders. His short brown hair was half hidden beneath a broad cowboy hat, his boots clicking sharply on the wooden planks. His massive leather cowhide jacket marked him as both practical and wealthy—a man used to bending circumstances to his will.
Behind him, stevedores shouted as they coaxed one hundred and sixteen head of cattle down the gangway. Their lowing filled the air, punctuated by the bellow of a single, massive bull, whose refusal to cooperate brought progress to a halt. The men swore, prodded, and tried coaxing the animal, while the Manasoo’s deckhands waited impatiently at the rail.
To the side, a glistening 1927 Chevrolet AA Capitol Coupe stood out against the grit of the working pier—Don Wallace’s pride and new indulgence, purchased only days before. Crates and hay bales were shifted and reshuffled to make room for both cattle and car in the ship’s hold, slowing the morning even further.
Wallace leaned close to McKay, his voice carrying over the noise of animals and men.
“Captain, I paid the Company well for this run. That car, those cattle—they’ll be in Owen Sound before the frost. I need no excuses.”
McKay’s jaw tightened beneath his beard. He kept his voice even, though the tone was reluctant.
“Orders are orders, Mr. Wallace. The Company signed her over to your service this week, and I’ll see her through. But a ship’s trim wasn’t made for this kind of load. She’ll ride heavy, and the season’s storms don’t wait for cattle ranchers or contracts.”
Wallace’s eyes narrowed, but his grin was confident, dismissive.
“You just keep her steady, Captain. I’ll see to the rest.”
The bull bellowed again, refusing to move up the gangplank. A team of dockhands pulled ropes taut against its horns as the sun climbed higher, the partly cloudy sky hinting at a shift in weather.
The day dragged on under a restless sky. What should have been a clean departure at 5 p.m. had unraveled into hours of delay.
Wallace, ever the perfectionist when it came to his investments, argued repeatedly with crew and stevedores—first demanding more cattle forward, then aft, then insisting the bull have more space. Each decision meant fresh delays, ropes and ramps reset, hay shifted, and men growing weary with each repetition.
Captain McKay kept a patient but tight-lipped vigil at the rail, his irritation hidden beneath a captain’s discipline. A ship was meant to move, not wait on indecision, but Wallace was no ordinary passenger—he was the man paying for the voyage. And by order of the Company, McKay had little choice but to endure.
By late evening, lanterns lit the dockside. The stevedores’ faces glistened with sweat as the last of the restless cattle stomped and snorted into their pens. The bull, still foul-tempered from the morning’s ordeal, slammed its horns against the iron gate, the sound echoing across the harbor.
At 10 p.m., Wallace’s friend, George Maurice Lambert, finally arrived—an hour late. He came down the pier with his bag slung over his shoulder, apologizing between gasps of breath about missed ferries and delayed horses. Wallace greeted him warmly, clapping his old friend on the back, while the crew muttered under their breath about wasted time.
McKay’s eyes turned again toward the horizon. The drifting clouds of morning had thickened into darker banks across the stars, and the steady westerly wind pressed harder against the bay.
At 11 p.m., the SS Manasoo finally stirred to life. Lines were cast off the dock, coiled and hauled aboard. The steamer’s whistle bellowed across Manitowaning harbor, scattering gulls into the night air. Her propellers churned the black water as the vessel eased into the channel, hull heavy with the weight of cattle, machinery, and one gleaming Chevrolet coupe secured below.
On the deck, Wallace stood proud, gazing into the vast dark expanse of Georgian Bay, already dreaming of profits to come. At the wheelhouse, McKay kept his face set and steady, though unease coiled in his chest.
The Manasoo was finally underway—hours late, loaded heavy, and bound for Owen Sound.
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The Manasoo pressed south-eastward along the Manitoulin coast, her bow slicing through the black water. The westerly wind that had carried unease through the day had grown sharper now, pushing at her starboard side with every rising swell. Clouds blanketed the sky, hiding the stars, and the lake was turning restless.
In the galley, Don Wallace sat heavy in a chair, boots stretched out, his broad hat pushed back. Across from him, George Maurice Lambert grinned as Wallace cracked the seal on a fresh bottle of scotch. Glasses clinked, their laughter muffled by the hum of machinery and the muffled thudding of cattle hooves below decks.
Above them, in the wheelhouse, Captain John McKay kept his eyes fixed on the dark water and the shifting horizon. A subtle change tugged at his instincts—the ship’s movement wasn’t right. He leaned into the compass, steadying his hand on the wheel, and felt the floor beneath him tilt ever so slightly. The Manasoo was listing to starboard.
“Mr. Long!” he barked to the watchman. “Fetch the engineer. Now.”
Moments later, heavy boots echoed on the companionway as the chief engineer descended into the engine room. The thrum of machinery mixed with the low, troubling groans of the hull. Ten tense minutes dragged by before the engineer reappeared, cap in hand, his face streaked with sweat and coal dust.
“She’s taking on some water, sir,” he reported. His voice carried a weight he didn’t try to disguise. “Could be a seam opened, or a plate loosened. Hard to pin it down, but it’s starboard side, somewhere forward. With her riding this low, the intake’s already below the line.”
McKay’s jaw tightened. “Get another pump down there. Double the output—we’ll not let a trickle turn into a flood.”
“Aye, Captain.”
As the engineer hurried away, McKay’s eyes drifted over the deck. The ship sat lower than he liked, her weight pressing deep into Georgian Bay. With 116 head of cattle shifting restlessly in their pens and Wallace’s stubborn load in the hold, the Manasoo carried little margin for error.
Maybe it was a small leak. Maybe it was nothing more than the strain of old steel plates meeting the push of a new storm. But McKay knew these waters, and he knew when something wasn’t right.
The wind howled harder across the deck, rattling the rigging as the lake began to rise.
The pounding of the pumps echoed through the hull, but it was a losing fight. Water pressed in at a critical rate, sloshing deeper into the starboard compartments. The engineer’s men worked frantically, their boots splashing with each stroke of the pump handles, but the lake was winning.
Above, the cattle grew restless, hooves thundering against timber, horns clashing as panic spread through the pens. Every surge and stumble shifted their collective weight, worsening the starboard list. The Manasoo’s helm grew heavier in McKay’s hands, her response sluggish as she staggered in the swells.
Suddenly the chief engineer burst into the pilothouse, face ashen, his cap dripping with sweat and spray.
“Captain! One of the seams has let loose—starboard side, forward. She’s pouring in faster than we can fight it.”
McKay’s eyes flicked to the glass. Through the whipping spray he could just make out the beacon of Griffith Island’s lighthouse, its beam cutting across the black water off the starboard bow. Hope in the storm.
He squared his shoulders, voice loud and steady above the gale.
“Tell the men—the situation’s worsening. We’ll take her hard to starboard. If we can reach the shallows by Griffith, we’ll beach her and save what we can.”
The engineer nodded once, then vanished back below.
McKay gripped the wheel and hauled it starboard. The ship shuddered as her bow strained against the rising seas. Cattle slammed against their pens, shifting the weight yet again, and the list deepened.
The gale was rising, screaming from the northwest, each wave crashing harder against the bow. Spray stung McKay’s eyes as he fought to hold her on course toward the lighthouse.
Behind him, crewmen braced themselves, exchanging grim looks but obeying their captain without hesitation. Outside, the storm howled louder, hammering the Manasoo as she staggered toward the faint glow of the light.
The engine room was flooding fast. Water now stood ankle-deep, surging higher with each wave that struck the hull. The crew worked furiously, pumps straining, buckets swinging, men shouting above the roar of machinery and the crash of the storm. Every ounce of effort was thrown at the fight to keep her afloat.
Time warped into a torment. Minutes stretched into hours, or so it felt, as the Manasoo staggered southward. Each rising swell struck her stern, swamping the decks, pouring down hatches, and pounding against her weakened seams.
In the holds below, chaos boiled. Cattle shifted restlessly, their hooves splashing in the rising water, the pens shuddering under the force of their panic. Suddenly, without warning, the mass of beasts surged to one side—whether driven by water lapping at their legs or the terrifying crack of thunder and lightning splitting the sky overhead.
The effect was immediate, devastating. The Manasoo lurched violently to starboard, her rail plunging down toward the waves. Within minutes, she was over, lying hard to the gunnel, her decks at a near-deadly angle.
In the wheelhouse, Captain John McKay seized the speaking trumpet, his voice cutting through wind and panic:
“Abandon ship! She won’t make the lighthouse—get to the rafts!”
Crewmen scrambled into the storm, some already swept from their feet by crashing water. Wallace and Lambert staggered up from the galley, eyes wide with shock as the ship gave her death roll. The bull’s furious roar mixed with the cattle’s cries and the groan of timbers as the vessel surrendered to the lake.
The storm tore at the decks as the ship rolled deeper to starboard. Captain John McKay, Don Wallace, George Maurice Lambert, Arthur Middleboro, Roy Fox, and Oswald Lang fought their way to the lifeboat lashed behind the pilothouse. Rain and spray blinded them, the roar of cattle and crashing waves drowning every shouted command.
Aft, the rest of the crew struggled desperately to launch boats from the stern. But their chance never came—within seconds, the stern plunged downward, sucked into the black water. The men vanished into the boiling lake as the aft deck disappeared beneath them.
Forward, the six survivors wrestled frantically with ropes and davits, straining to free the lifeboat as the bow pitched violently. The timbers shrieked under the pressure. Suddenly, a towering wave slammed across the deck. George Maurice Lambert was caught between the swinging lifeboat and the pilothouse wall. The impact crushed his chest with a sickening crack, his cry lost in the gale.
“Get him in!” McKay bellowed. With brute force, he and Fox dragged the limp, gasping Lambert into the boat. Wallace and Lang heaved from the other side, their arms slick with rain and blood. Middleboro fought the ropes loose, and at last the lifeboat broke free.
Then came the final shudder. The Manasoo’s bow lifted high, then dropped beneath them in a violent plunge. The lifeboat tore away into the storm, tossed like a chip of wood in the raging lake.
From below, a deafening blast shook the night. A hatch cover blew loose, and with it came terror—the cattle. Dozens of frantic beasts surged upward into the storm, their massive bodies thrashing in the black water. Eyes wide and wild, they clawed for footing that no longer existed. Their bellowing mingled with the thunder, the sound of drowning life circling the lifeboat in the churning chaos.
Six men clung to the fragile craft, their world reduced to lightning, rain, and the haunting cries of cattle being swallowed by Georgian Bay.
The last glow of the Manasoo slipped beneath the waves, swallowed by the storm. Darkness closed in. Nothing remained but the howl of the wind, the crash of waves, and the agonized cries of cattle thrashing in their final moments before silence claimed them too.
The lifeboat, torn loose in the chaos, rode the storm like a leaf. Spray and rain drenched the men inside, while the wind drove them further from the faint outline of shore. Hours blurred into a haze of black water and bitter cold.
When at last the sun rose, it offered no warmth. The lifeboat pitched and tossed, its occupants—Captain John McKay, Don Wallace, Arthur Middleboro, Roy Fox, and Oswald Lang—huddled together, their faces pale and lips blue from the chill. At their feet lay George Maurice Lambert, gasping shallowly, each cough tearing through him. Blood flecked his lips as he fought for breath, his crushed chest caving under the strain.
They tried—hands pressed to wounds, whispered encouragement—but there was little to be done. Lambert’s strength drained with the rising sun. Finally, with a rattling sigh, his head lolled, and his body stilled. He passed away in the bottom of the lifeboat, his friend Don Wallace watching helplessly.
The silence among the survivors was heavier than the storm. Hours stretched on with no sign of rescue, only the endless horizon and the biting wind. The men shivered uncontrollably, their bodies weakening. In grim silence, they made a decision born of survival: Lambert’s coat, boots, and garments were carefully removed, shared among them to hold back the creeping cold.
The lifeboat drifted on, five men alive, but hope thinning with every crashing wave.
Daylight faded into night with no sign of rescue. The five survivors—Captain John McKay, Don Wallace, Arthur Middleboro, Roy Fox, and Oswald Lang—huddled together in the bottom of the lifeboat, their bodies pressed close in a desperate attempt to cling to what little warmth they could find. Each breath steamed in the cold night air, and sleep came only in shivers and fits.
The next morning brought a fragile calm. The storm had eased, leaving only long, rolling swells that lifted the lifeboat skyward and dropped it down again, over and over. The men were silent, their faces hollow, eyes staring at the endless horizon. No sails, no smokestacks—only water.
Hours dragged on. Another day passed. Hunger gnawed at their stomachs, thirst cracked their lips, and exhaustion dulled their thoughts. Lambert’s body, now stripped of its clothing, lay still in the boat, a grim reminder of how close each of them stood to death.
By the second night, their strength was nearly gone. The lake was quiet now, the storm replaced by an eerie calm, but the cold was merciless. The men lay sprawled in the bottom of the lifeboat, too weak to do more than breathe.
Then—through the silence—came a sound. A low, distant rumble. Engines.
The survivors stirred, heads lifting slowly, painfully. Hands gripped the gunwales as they pulled themselves upright. Across the rolling water, a black shape loomed, growing larger with each swell. A plume of smoke rose into the pale sky.
It was the SS Manitoba, her bow pointed directly toward them.
Cries broke from parched throats, arms waved feebly in the air. The little lifeboat, adrift for 60 desperate hours, had finally been found.
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THE DIVE by Michael MacDonald
I know this is probably an exceedingly bold claim to make, but the wreck of the Manasoo, in my opinion, is one of the top ten wrecks in the Great Lakes. Its modest depth for technical divers and relatively recent discovery (June 2018) mean that the wreck has not been illegally pilfered or damaged by hordes of poorly trained or careless divers.
This wreck offers a wealth of sights and an abundance of artifacts, serving as a virtual time capsule, much like other protected wrecks in the Great Lakes. I only mention artifacts because, as a Northeast wreck diver, I know that if this wreck were found in the Atlantic, everything on it would have been stripped and removed long ago. While I appreciate artifacts, I respect this protected environment and would never take or disturb anything. The truth is, without human interference, the cold, deep waters of Lake Huron beautifully preserve these wrecks, and I love seeing everything exactly as it went down.
The local charter, Fully Tek Charters (run by Greg and Allisha Hilliard), has done an excellent job vetting the divers allowed on this wreck. Their smaller dive boat, the Swayze Express, is well-equipped and comfortable. It is a short run out to the wreck from Big Bay, Ontario. There are also a couple of other excellent shipwrecks in the area, but the crown jewel is the Manasoo. For visiting the wreck, your best option is to book a charter with Fully Tek
Unfortunately, with increased diving activity, more damage is starting to become noticeable. In the past few years, the starboard side railing on the bow has fallen off the wreck, and part of the wooden staircase leading down to the engine room has collapsed. While some damage is an inevitable consequence of natural decay and the stress caused by quagga mussels, diver presence has certainly accelerated deterioration to some extent. As with all wrecks in the Great Lakes—and indeed worldwide—special care should be taken to avoid contact with the wreck.
The Manasoo’s wheelhouse stands out as one of my favorites among Great Lakes wrecks, remarkably preserved with its helm, compass binnacle, engine order telegraph (chadburn), and clock still intact on the wall. It reminds me of the wheelhouse on the Judge Hart, another shipwreck in Lake Superior. The wreck itself is a veritable treasure trove, with artifacts scattered throughout.
Inside the wreck, white paint still adheres to the walls as you move forward past passenger staterooms down to the engine room and cargo hold. Light bulbs and hanging chandeliers remain in place. Beyond the engine room, moving forward, you’ll encounter the remains of cattle bones and preserved carcasses.
In addition to 21 people on board, the wreck was also carrying 115 cows and one bull as cargo. There is speculation that the shifting weight of the cattle may have directly contributed to the vessel’s sinking.
Another notable feature of the wreck is an intact 1927 Chevy coupe, owned by passenger Don Wallace. The car sits upright and is easily viewed from the cargo hold without having to penetrate the wreck. It’s reminiscent of Truk Lagoon—only a bit colder. Wallace, who also owned the cattle, was the only passenger to survive, along with Captain John McKay and three other sailors.
Swimming slightly forward of the bow and gazing back at the wreck, it looks very much like a ghost ship that could continue steaming on if suddenly lifted from the water. The starboard side railing leading up to the wheelhouse, which unfortunately has since fallen, was once strangely devoid of mussels or growth, as if scrubbed by unseen hands. Some of us joked that ghosts kept it clear, though it was probably due to the type of metal used in the railing. Still, it makes for good folklore.
The lifeboat on the deck and another lying off the starboard side are grim reminders of the tragedy that occurred and the lives lost. Sixteen people perished in the wreck, with only five of the 21 aboard surviving.
Apart from the collapsed stern, the wreck is mostly intact. It is the very definition of a “Hollywood wreck,” sitting upright in 210 ft (64 m) of water off Griffith Island in Georgian Bay, Ontario (Lake Huron). Its modest depth makes it accessible to normoxic trimix-trained technical divers who are comfortable in cold water, while still allowing ample bottom time to explore.
As with most deeper Great Lakes wrecks, the bottom temperature is a brisk 39°F (4°C). However, Lake Huron’s thermocline can be surprisingly warm depending on the time of year. Most of our decompression stops above 70 ft were spent in balmy 65°F water. In addition, the water is usually crystal clear, with visibility of 50–100 ft (15–30 m) not uncommon.
The Manasoo was discovered in June 2018 by shipwreck hunters Ken Merryman, Jerry Eliason, and Cris Kohl. Many world-class photographers had the opportunity to dive the wreck shortly after its discovery, making them among the first to witness and thoroughly document it.
I was fortunate enough to dive the Manasoo a few years after its initial discovery and have since made one or two trips a year to the wreck. In short, the Manasoo is one of my favorite wrecks in Lake Huron. I consider it among my top ten wrecks in the Great Lakes. I never tire of diving it, and I always manage to see something new.