Wreck of the SS Florida - Lake Huron

 
 

Photography by Chris Roxburgh
Text and Illustrations by Curt Bowen

 
My Track
0:00 0:00
🔊
Audio Player: Let ADM read the editorial for you.
 
 

The Great Lakes in the spring of 1897 were a mariner's dream and nightmare intertwined. Vast inland seas teeming with commerce, where wooden behemoths like the SS Florida plied the waters, carrying the lifeblood of a burgeoning America: flour from Chicago's mills, barrels of whiskey that warmed the souls of frontier towns, syrup for sweetening deals, and manufactured goods bound for Buffalo's bustling ports. Captain Henry Murphy, a grizzled veteran with eyes sharpened by decades on the lakes, stood at the helm of the Florida. At 270 feet long, she was a proud package freighter, her three masts reaching skyward like fingers grasping for the wind, though her triple-expansion steam engine did most of the work, churning coal into relentless forward motion.

Murphy's crew of 21 was a hardy lot. First Mate S.W. Burt, a no-nonsense Irishman with a quick wit and quicker temper, kept the deckhands in line. Second Mate D. Morrison, the thinker of the bunch, pored over charts in the dim light of the pilot house. Down in the engine room, Chief Engineer George M. Wyest and his second, John Gallagher, wrestled with the beastly machinery, ensuring the boilers roared without fail. Wheelsmen Joseph McCord and Patrick Bulger alternated shifts at the wheel, their hands calloused from guiding the ship through treacherous straits. And up in the crow's nest, Lookout John Conners scanned the horizon, his voice the first line of defense against the lakes' capricious moods.

They had departed Chicago in early May, the Florida's holds crammed with 3,150 sacks of flour, 50,000 bushels of wheat, 1,451 barrels—including those precious whiskey casks—and assorted crates of goods. The journey up Lake Michigan was uneventful, the waters calm under a sun that promised prosperity. Through the Straits of Mackinac, the crew shared stories of past voyages: groundings at Sault Ste. Marie in '89, a near-miss ashore near Whiting in '93. "She's a tough old girl," Murphy would say, patting the rail like a faithful steed. But as they entered Lake Huron's upper reaches, a subtle chill crept in. Whispers of fog banks ahead, those ghostly veils that turned the lakes into a blind man's gamble.

 
 
 
 

By May 20, the fog descended like a shroud. It was thick, impenetrable, the kind that muffled sounds and turned daylight into twilight. The Florida crept forward at half speed, her whistle blasting mournful warnings into the void. Conners strained from his perch, but visibility was mere yards. "Nothing but white, Cap'n!" he shouted down. Murphy paced the bridge, his pipe clenched between teeth, relying on dead reckoning and the occasional glimpse of a landmark. Off Presque Isle, Michigan, the waters grew deceptive—shoals lurking beneath, currents pulling unpredictably. Yet the trade must go on; delays meant lost profits in this era of industrial frenzy.

Unbeknownst to them, the George W. Roby loomed in the mist. Captain William H. Smith, a Canadian-born sailor with a reputation for steady nerves, commanded the larger freighter—294 feet of wooden might, built for hauling ore but now light in ballast, towing the schooner Becker toward Marquette. Smith's crew was alert, but the fog played tricks on even the best. At around 9:00 a.m., the unthinkable happened. A shadow materialized from the haze, too late for evasive action. The Roby's bow, sharp and unyielding, slammed into the Florida's starboard side amidships.

The impact was cataclysmic—a thunderous crack that reverberated through both hulls like the wrath of the lakes themselves. Wood splintered, metal groaned, and the Florida shuddered as if struck by a leviathan. A gaping hole, 12 feet deep and 25 feet wide, tore open her side, water rushing in with ferocious hunger. "Collision! All hands on deck!" Murphy bellowed, his voice cutting through the chaos. Burt rallied the men, grabbing life preservers and lines. In the engine room, Wyest and Gallagher fought to keep the pumps going, but the flood was overwhelming. "She's taking water fast, sir!" Gallagher yelled up the speaking tube.

 
 
 
 

Panic threatened, but adventure forged these men. Conners slid down from his nest, helping McCord and Bulger secure the wheelhouse. Morrison dashed below to check the holds, where barrels tumbled amid the rising torrent. The Florida listed starboard, her bow dipping as trapped air pockets built pressure. Within minutes, the ship began to break—the collision had nearly cleaved her in two. "Abandon ship! To the rails!" Murphy ordered, his calm demeanor a beacon in the storm.

From the Roby, Smith acted swiftly. Despite his own vessel's bow being crumpled—damage estimated at $5,000—he maneuvered close, throwing lines across the narrowing gap. The Florida's crew leaped or were hauled aboard, one by one, as the fog swirled like a malevolent spirit. Burt carried a injured deckhand over his shoulder; Wyest refused to leave until the engines were shut down, emerging soot-blackened and defiant. In a heart-pounding race against time, all 21 souls made it to safety just as the Florida's stern plunged.

But the drama wasn't over. As she sank—stern-first in a mere 12 minutes—trapped air in the bow exploded with volcanic force, blasting off the forward cabins and pilot house in a shower of debris. Murphy later recounted, "When the stern hit bottom, she collapsed like a jackknife." Barrels bobbed to the surface, whiskey mingling with the lake water in ironic libation. The Roby, her own hull compromised but afloat, transferred the Becker to another steamer and limped to Port Huron with the survivors.

In the aftermath, the lakes claimed another victim, but spared lives through heroism and quick thinking. A U.S. admiralty court case, The George W. Roby, dissected the fog-bound blame, but no charges stuck—nature was the true culprit. The Florida rested in 206 feet of water, her wreck a time capsule: masts along the deck, engine exposed in the broken stern, a V-shaped gash eternal testament to the clash.

Years later, in 1994, diver Ed Ellison rediscovered her, intact save for the jackknife fold, drawing adventurers to her depths. But on that fateful day, as the fog lifted and the Roby steamed away, Murphy stood on the foreign deck, pipe relit, gazing back at the bubbles marking his ship's grave. "The lakes give, and they take," he muttered. "But we sail on."

 
 
 
 
Photography by Chris Roxburgh

 
 
3D Model of the SS Florida
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
DIVE TEAM
 
 
 
 
 
 
CONTACT CHRIS
 
 
 

Disclaimer: This editorial is composed based on the most comprehensive historical records and firsthand accounts available. In the absence of any surviving archival photographs of the vessels or their crews, illustrative images have been generated to align as closely as possible with the documented specifications of the ships, descriptions of the wreckage and the crew.

 
 
 
 
 
 
All Materials © Curt Bowen 2024